Shredded, melted or sliced, cheddar cheese is likely to turn up at the next party you attend. It can stand up to a bottle of wine or a bowl of tortilla chips, making it appropriate for tux-and-gown soirees as well as dorm-room parties. - Cheddar is the best-known cheese in the United States, though it originated in England. Once sold in New England groceries as "store cheese," it now comes in many forms. - The Boston Herald held a taste-off to find out which brands are worthy of your New Year's or Super Bowl party. We bought seven domestically made "sharp" cheddars from local supermarkets and specialty cheese shops. Our four tasters rated each on a scale of 0-10, making 40 a perfect score. Brand names were revealed at the end of the judging. The cheeses' price per pound is in parentheses.

The panel unanimously chose Grafton Village ($5.89) as its favorite, giving it a score of 32. This Vermont cheese had the "best texture," which tasters described as "smooth" and "rich." Its flavor tasted "like it was made from high-quality milk." As one judge put it, "I like the taste of the barn in my cheese and this has it." Another called it "good party cheese." - The second-place finisher, with 26 points, was Land O'Lakes ($3.98). Though this cheese was somewhat "bland", its "smooth" texture and "good acidity" made it palatable. "This would be fine with a nice bottle of good red wine," one judge suggested. Another said it would taste good in a blend of cheese for pizza topping. - Cracker Barrel ($4.73), made by Kraft, came right behind with 25 points. Once again, tasters found the taste "mild" but agreeable; a "typical cheddar flavor". The "creamy" texture was also pleasant. One taster described its middle-of-the-road status this way: "No one would hate you for serving this, but no one would love you either. Someone might notice." - The Star Market brand ($3.18) made in Wisconsin, scored a 23. Tasters thought its "mild but very even" flavor would make it best for use in a recipe or to melt on corn chips. Eaten alone, its texture proved "too soft" and "pasty." - Cabot ($5.09), a Vermont cheese scored 18. Though one judge liked its level of sharpness, others found it too mild, with a "gritty" texture. Its flavor was marred by a "funny aftertaste," which reminded tasters of "fish" or "chemicals."

McCadam ($4.99 per pound), a New York cheddar, scored 13. Though it was "very creamy," judges found it "bitter" and "processed-tasting, more like a bad American cheese" than sharp cheddar. Said one, "It's disagreeable, not deserving of the cracker." - Despite its name, Heluva Good ($3.99) scored a 10. Tasters were overwhelmed by a "bitter" and "plastic" taste. Said one: "I didn't like it the minute I put it in my mouth, and it didn't get any better. The sharpness tastes artificial and not cheesy." - Our taste-off panel this month included Ihsan Gurdal, cheese expert and president of Formaggio Kitchen; Tim Powers, general manager of prepared foods for Wild Harvest; Bill Unterstein, sous chef at Grill 23 & Bar; and Ted Clausen, author of Ted's Table, "the dinner with friends newsletter" of recipes and entertaining advice.

The Herald's Cheddar Cheese Taste-Off Four tasters rated sharp cheddar cheese on a scale of 0-10, making 40 a perfect score.

Four tasters rated sharp cheddar cheese on a scale of 0-10, making 40 a perfect score.

The Herald's Cheddar Cheese Taste-Off Four tasters rated sharp cheddar cheese on a scale of 0-10, making 40 a perfect score.

BRAND SCORE COMMENTS Grafton Village 32 Smooth, rich texture; made from high-quality milk; good party cheese Land O'Lakes 26 Slighty bland; smooth; good for pizza topping Cracker Barrel 25 Mild but agreeable; creamy Star 23 Mild but very even flavor; good for recipes Cabot 18 Too mild; gritty; unpleasant aftertaste McCadam 13 Very creamy; bitter; tastes processed Heluva Good 10 Overwhelmingly bitter; artificial taste

by Clara Silverstein